Resources of excellence
Cartier is a world-renowned jeweller, yet accounts for only a minor share of the world's diamond consumption. In fact, the vast majority of jewellery products carry no brand name. We have nonetheless chosen to take a leading role in advancing exemplary ethical conduct. It is a natural choice, considering Cartier's reputation as well as our commitment to excellence.
Consequently, the fight against conflict diamonds is a major priority of our Corporate Responsibility policy.
The United Nations defines conflict diamonds as “diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognised governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention with the decisions of the Security Council.”
The term originated in the 1990s during the conflicts that ravaged a number of African nations including Sierra Leone, Liberia and Angola, among others. These conflicts have brought about a powerful mobilisation under the aegis of the UN. Diamond-producing states, countries that import and export diamonds, diamond industry representatives and NGOs (Non-Governmental Organisations) have combined their efforts to help restore peace in the conflict zones.
The common objective is to guarantee economic stability and development for these nations, particularly those in Southern Africa, for which legitimate rough diamond trade is vitally important.
The Kimberley Process was initiated in the year 2000 through the joint efforts of the UN, diamond-producing states, diamond industry representatives and NGOs. The objective: to ensure that no “conflict diamonds” enter the world market. As of September 2007, the Kimberley Process counts 54 participants representing 81 governments (the European Union and its Member States are counted as a single participant), and thus encompasses the vast majority of stakeholders in the production and trade of rough diamonds.
The Kimberley Process has established a certification system which has been in effect since 1 January, 2003. Rough diamonds must be exported in sealed containers with numbered, government-issued certificates of origin. Inspections occur regularly. A country found to be non-compliant may be sanctioned and barred from the trade. Results in 2006: approximately 99% of rough diamonds in circulation were certified as coming from conflict-free sources.
VOLUNTARY SYSTEM OF WARRANTIES
Applying to polished diamonds, i.e. once they have been cut, the System of Warranties is complementary to the Kimberley Process. The whole diamond industry has pledged its support to end the sale of conflict diamonds with additional measures applying to diamond and jewellery manufacturing and sales. Every seller of cut diamonds issues a Statement of Warranty that is passed on each time the diamond changes hands. This statement attests that the diamond is conflict-free and appears on all invoices submitted throughout the diamond's journey.
At Cartier, we have subjected all our diamond purchases to the System of Warranties since the scheme was introduced in January 2003. We require a Statement of Warranty for every diamond-related invoice we receive.
As outlined in our Corporate Responsibility policy, our commitments extend beyond the scope of diamonds. They apply to all our product lines and cover three areas – ethical, social and environmental.
To learn more about the diamond industry, we encourage you to visit www.diamondfacts.org. This site was created at the initiative of the World Diamond Council, an international organisation committed to eradicating the trade of diamonds that come from conflict zones or otherwise compromise human rights.
Cartier engages in long-term relationships with suppliers who share our values. We work with our suppliers on a daily basis to help them respect and uphold the commitments of our Maison.
CARTIER’S SOURCING POLICY
Cartier sources its materials with careful, responsible consideration and is committed to continuously improving its ethical, social and environmental performance.
STONE TRANSFORMATION JOURNEY
From its rough state to becoming part of a jewellery creation, traditional and “deep-modifying” treatments can occur that transform a stone:
1. Mineral Growth : During their growth, minerals are submitted to high temperature & high pressure, and some exogenous chemical elements may integrate & modify the crystal structure
2. Rough treatment : Traditional practices: heating to modify the color Vs “deep modifying” treatments such as dyeing or polymer impregnation
3. Cutting & Polishing : Traditional practices: use of wax during polishing
4. After cut treatment :
- Traditional practices: filling of surface reaching inclusions with colorless oil
- “Deep-modifying” treatments: coating, dyeing, fracture-filling with lead-glass, heating with diffusion of chemicals…
CARTIER’S COLOURED GEMSTONES TREATMENT POLICY
By enhancing nature’s beauty, Cartier only selects natural gemstones for the Maison's jewelry creations. Synthetic and imitation materials are excluded from the Maison's jewelry collections.
Only traditional practices are accepted for stones treatments in jewelry: these are historically accepted treatments within the stone trade, commonly called “modifications” and most are not considered as treatment by the World Jewellery Confederation.
Cartier prohibits the use of any process altering the composition or the durability of stones. Treatments that will undervalue the stones are not accepted.
FOCUS ON RUBIES, SAPPHIRES AND EMERALDS
Rubies & Sapphires
Stones over 1 carat are exclusively not heated. Heating is accepted for stones below 1 carat only.
Why are rubies and sapphires heated?
Heating is a common procedure to improve colour.
For rubies, heat eliminates blue or brown tints to get an intense red colour. Pale sapphires benefit from heat to boost the hue’s intensity, and dark sapphires lighten when exposed to heat. After heating, the stone color remains stable.
Cartier only accepts filling with colourless oil. Filling with resin is not accepted.
Oil level is limited to a very small amount compared to the global jewellery market:
- maximum "minor" for faceted stones over 1ct
- maximum "moderate" for un-faceted stones (cabochons, beads and engraved stones)
Why do emeralds need oiling?
Emerald is a stone with natural inclusions. Filling the surface reaching inclusions with oil enables the improvement of the stone’s transparency. Emerald oiling, a lapidary process recorded in ancient times, has been practiced ever since. Oiling is a reversible procedure that does not harm or modify the stone. The stones with the lowest fill level are more highly valued.
STONE TREATMENTS AND SCIENTIFIC EVOLUTION
Treatment techniques and the ability to detect them evolve over time. Cartier stones are analysed by recognized laboratories, and their conclusions are given in accordance with current scientific knowledge.
BURMA: OUR POSITION
In accordance with our commitment to continuous improvement, in December 2017 Cartier stopped buying gemstones which may have been mined in Burma (Myanmar) - irrespective of where those stones have been cut and exported from - until further notice.
Cartier has issued instructions to this effect to its suppliers of coloured gemstones, requesting that they confirm on all relevant shipments that the gemstones provided have not been mined in Burma.
OUR GOLD SOURCING
Because of Cartier's exceptional position in the jewellery world, we believe that our responsibilities with respect to society encompass not only our own operations and our entire supply chain but also involve a broader role in seeking to make a difference in the jewellery industry at large – particularly in the mining and production of precious metals and minerals.
Over the past few years, we have sought to better understand the challenges which our industry faces in order to find relevant solutions to issues associated with large scale-extraction as well as artisanal mining of precious metals.
These challenges include social and environmental issues, and in some cases, distressing accounts of human rights abuse. While these types of issues are not exclusive to the jewellery supply chain and certainly will not be resolved by the industry alone, without the involvement and support of government authorities, our industry must rise to the challenge; a gift of jewellery is a particularly symbolic one, and our customers trust us to ensure that their purchase lives up to its sparkle.
At Cartier, our gold suppliers have unequivocally committed, in writing, to responsible gold sourcing, in line with the best practices and certifications. They have also pledged to implement every possible measure, within their operations and sphere of influence, to prevent gold which may be used to finance human rights violations from entering the watch and jewellery supply chain, particularly when it comes to the gold products they supply to us.
In keeping with our dedication to excellence since our Maison's foundation in 1847, Cartier is committed to responsible and sustainable business principles and practices, including sustainable sourcing. We work towards upholding such practices and principles throughout all lines of business, including leather products.
We have been working on developing a deeper and more comprehensive understanding of the global production, processing and trade of leather in general, and exotic skins in particular, in order to develop, promote and implement sustainable management and supply practices in this area.
IN 2009 CARTIER JOINED THE RESPONSIBLE LUXURY INITIATIVE
The Responsible Luxury Initiative (ReLI) is comprised of companies in the luxury industry that are committed to advancing good social, environmental and animal welfare practices in their business operations, including sustainable sourcing practices. The working group has been convened by Business for Social Responsibility (BSR) that also acts as facilitator for the ReLI.
The group is committed to discussing common environmental, social, and governance challenges facing the luxury sector, to promote transparency, knowledge sharing, and collaboration across common global supply chains.
The ReLI Approach is based on:
- Research on social and environmental impacts of product sourcing
- Consultation with stakeholders on supply chain system dynamics and potential solutions to sustainability issues
- Collaboration with peers through face-to-face meetings and teleconferences to identify emerging issues and determine common approaches
For further information: www.bsr.org/en/collaboration/groups/responsible-luxury-initiative
Cartier extends its corporate responsibility policy beyond jewellery and watchmaking to encompass its duty to set an example as a role model in the perfume industry.
Cartier fragrances and scented products are not tested on animals in Europe or further afield, and strictly comply with current Perfumes and Cosmetic Regulations in Europe.
Our development strategy calls on us to look beyond existing regulations and actively monitor the legislation in order to maintain a list of ‘sensitive' ingredients whose use we prohibit or restrict in our formulas. At the same time, as part of our ongoing pursuit of excellence, we are careful not to stifle the creative process.
The Cartier fragrances manufactured today are free of all animal extracts including civet and castoreum, even though these ingredients are not prohibited by current legislation. Within the associated ranges of scented body lotions, shower gels, aftershaves, etc., only neutral derivatives of animal ingredients, such as honey, are permitted in the formulas of Cartier Fragrances.
Our partners and suppliers of plant extracts actively promote plant biodiversity. We support their actions through our creation, development and sourcing activities (for example, sandalwood has been sourced in Australia ever since Mysore sandalwood was classified a rare species in India).
PAPER AND PACKAGING
In compliance with our corporate responsibility philosophy, we are committed to purchasing the materials used for crafting and packaging our products from responsible sources.
PAPER AND PRINTED MATERIAL
Apart from using TCF (totally chlorine free) and ECF (elementary chlorine free) paper, Cartier is committed to opting for paper from forests which are managed in an environmentally-friendly, socially-beneficial and economically-viable way.
Our policy is to systematically source material from responsibly managed forests, with appropriate certification of the suppliers' chain-of-custody and materials.
For packaging activities, Cartier had a specialist firm carry out complete life cycle analysis (LCA) for two of their iconic packaging products – the Cartier red bag and the red gift boxes used for all Cartier products. Both items were selected as they are emblematic of the brand and transcend a single product – they are used frequently across all stores to package watches, jewellery and accessories.
The life-cycle analysis encompassed an extensive information-gathering exercise in areas such as raw materials usage, production processes and transportation for both products.
The studies highlighted areas for potential environmental improvements and have acted as a catalyst; encouraging the buying team to work with suppliers to investigate alternative, sustainable fibre materials as a replacement material.
All our red shopping bags are made of FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification schemes) paper.
Since the end of 2009, the Cartier red box is made of more environmentally-friendly material for the covering and overlap, and use coatings which are solvent and plastic free. The paper used to cover the red boxes contains 50% of PCW recycled fibres and is FSC certified.
As part of Cartier's commitment to environmental stewardship, we have extended our analysis of resources and materials used beyond precious materials and paper to include textile materials.
This is why we have conducted an in-depth analysis of our after sales service tools (red pouches for jewellery, time-pieces and accessories). Since 2011, our after-sales pouches are made of a material that is OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 compliant.
The International OEKO-TEX® Association is an alliance of 15 well-known textile, research and test institutes in Europe and Japan, with branches and information centres in more than 50 countries world-wide.
The OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is a global uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. Its aim is to ensure products are free of harmful substances. The catalogue of testing criteria contains more than 100 testing parameters.
Since 2013, all boutique staff uniforms are manufactured using an OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 compliant material. Extending the scope of our analysis and actions to professional textiles is a natural extension of Cartier's approach to social responsibility.
ENERGY AND EMISSIONS
While we recognise that our direct carbon footprint is relatively small compared to that of other business sectors, we are committed to minimising our impact on the natural environment through energy efficiency initiatives, especially in the boutiques, while optimising energy use on manufacturing sites and promoting awareness-raising initiatives.
CARBON FOOTPRINT / CARBON NEUTRALITY
We recognise that we have a role in controlling greenhouse gas emissions, which is why we measure our emissions each year and aim to reduce them.
Through measurement and the purchase of ‘carbon offsets', Cartier has been carbon neutral since March 2009.
Our carbon footprint is calculated using a template adapted from the Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Protocol of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) tools. This protocol is the internationally accepted template for accounting and reporting on GHG emissions.
The measurement covers:
- Direct GHG emissions from sources that are owned or controlled by the company. It includes energy use from buildings and emissions associated with the vehicles we operate.
- Indirect emissions associated with purchased electricity, heat and steam.
- Other indirect emissions resulting from the usage of private cars and the mileage from the use of commercial airlines for business travel.
CARTIER BOUTIQUES SHOWCASE COMMITMENT TO THE ENVIRONMENT
Jewellery and watches need to be lit with powerful high-quality, high-intensity lighting.
Prompted by concern for the environmental and economic impact of lighting in its boutiques, Cartier has redesigned its lighting concept with a view to reconciling in-store requirements with a reduced impact on the environment.
We began working with our suppliers to identify responsible solutions in 2002. Cartier subsequently commissioned its partners to develop LED technology that provides the same quality of light with 50% less energy consumption and noticeably reduced heat emissions, adding up to significant energy savings overall.
The Cartier lighting charter incorporates the latest sustainable development requirements and compliant new lighting sources consistent with the new French HQE environmental quality standard for the construction sector. The HQE standard applies the three pillars and sustainable development concerns to construction life cycles.
The objective over the next three years is to fit all boutiques with low-energy lighting throughout, provided that the technology can be developed at a sufficient pace.
Cartier has been a pioneer in making the switch to LED bulbs to display its watches and jewellery. The new lighting system made its début in table lamps and wall display cases in 2009, and was extended to counters and wall-mounted lighting in 2010. As of 2012, all of our new boutiques are systematically fitted with LED lights throughout.
Trust is key in the jewellery and watch world. It is the pledge which binds Cartier and its customers together in every field, i.e. the quality and provenance of stones, the beauty and originality of the creation, the excellence of workmanship, the level of technical performance, attentive service and, in a world which is increasingly concerned about its future, the management of our social and environmental responsibility.
Cartier's corporate responsibility policy provides the foundation for the company's ethical, social and environmental commitments. It dictates the way in which it is committed to working, in a spirit of continual progress shared by all employees and suppliers across all of its product lines, from the beginning to the end of the value chain.
SUPPLIER AUDIT PROGRAMME
We require our business partners to adhere to the high standards we set ourselves as a condition of doing business with us. The practical implementation of this policy in our supply chain is monitored through a comprehensive audit programme launched in 2007.
Corporate responsibility audits are conducted by an independent, international firm. These audits cover a wide range of criteria to assess the suppliers’ ethical, social, and environmental performance. The programme applies to suppliers from all product lines and areas of the business, ranging from raw materials to manufacturing as well as packaging and boutique furnishings. It has been developed in the spirit of partnership with suppliers and encourages a process of continuous improvement through the sharing of best practices. In that spirit, and as part of an uncompromising demand for excellence, Cartier ensured that its own manufacturing sites were audited using the same methodology, before rolling this out to external suppliers (tier 1 and tier 2).
“CALIFORNIA TRANSPARENCY IN SUPPLY CHAINS ACT OF 2010"
The California Transparency in Supply Chains Act of 2010 (SB 657) effective as of 1 January 2012 in the State of California was designed to increase the amount of information made available by manufacturers and retailers regarding their efforts to address the issue of slavery and human trafficking, thereby allowing consumers to make better, more informed choices regarding the products they buy and the companies they choose to support.
Each of our suppliers is required to adhere to Cartier's Corporate Responsibility Policy which states that:
- We believe in and will respect fundamental human rights and the dignity of the individual, according to the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights.
- We will not tolerate the use of child labour.
- We will not use any forced, bonded, indentured or prison labour, nor restrict the freedom of movement of employees and dependants.
Cartier's suppliers are subject to audits by an independent third party that conducts a complete assessment of social and regulatory compliance issues, including forced labour.