When Jacques Cartier took over the London branch in 1906 he discovered the "Jewel in the British Crown"- India. Several visits to India proved to be a double inspiration that showed its influence from 1910. On one hand, in the choice of jewels that evoked Indian decorative art, on the other through the purchase there of sapphires, rubies and traditionally carved emeralds. The result was the emergence in the 1920s of a unique style shimmering with colored stones that became one of the major elements in the Art of Cartier. Around 1970, the style was given the name Tutti frutti.
BAZUBAND UPPER ARM BRACELET
CARTIER PARIS FOR LONDON, COMMISSIONED IN 1922
Platinum, old-cut diamonds
A bazuband is a traditional Indian bracelet, worn by both men and women, from the Mughal Empire (16th to 19th centuries). This piece was the first upper-arm bracelet executed by Cartier. It features an articulated platinum armature that is extremely flexible in order to fit the curve of the arm. Three rings (now missing) set with diamonds made it possible to fasten the bracelet around the arm, although it could also be worn as a pendant, a brooch, or a corsage ornament. The bracelet was made to order with the client’s stones. Of the 859 diamonds supplied, only 28 (for a total of 0.99 carats) were not used and were returned to the client.
Sold to Sir Dhunjibhoy Bomandji (1862-1937)
Shipping magnate who owned many estates in India and England.
As a philanthropist, he supported numerous charities in both India and Britain.
22.3 x 14.0 x 0.20 cm
CARTIER NEW YORK, COMMISSIONED IN 1925
Platinum, one carved hexagonal 85.60 carat emerald, fifty fluted emerald beads, weighing an estimated total of 517 carats, single-cut diamonds, natural pearls.
Length: 75.05 cm; width of pendant: 4.4 cm
CARTIER PARIS, 1929
Platinum, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, leaf-shaped carved sapphires, emeralds and rubies, emerald and sapphire cabochons, ruby beads studded with collet-set diamonds.
18.0 x 4.07 x 0.75 cm
CARTIER PARIS, COMMISSIONED IN 1936,
ALTERED IN 1963
Platinum, white gold, marquise-, baguette- and round old-cut diamonds, thirteen briolette-cut sapphires weighing 146.9 carats in total, two leaf-shaped carved sapphires (50.80 and 42.45 carats), engraved sapphires, sapphire beads, one sapphire cabochon, square carved emeralds, fluted and smooth emerald beads, emerald cabochons, leaf-shaped carved rubies, smooth and engraved ruby beads, ruby cabochons.
This necklace made in the Indian style was originally fastened with a black cord at the back of the neck.
Commissioned by Mrs. Daisy Fellowes.
Heiress to the Singer sewing machine fortune, Daisy Fellowes was often named “the world’s most elegant woman” by magazines of the 1920s and ’30s. This figure of Parisian society boasted two qualities without which elegance tends to be overlooked: taste and audacity. These qualities earned her a firm reputation as a leader of fashion.
Length 43 cm (open)